Piu Italia

We started to get glimpses of the coast about an hour from our destination. It was gorgeous – the white sand and blue sea of a tropical climate. This area though is framed by 3,000-foot (or more) hills that come right to the water covered in deep green tropical plants or terraced groves of lemons, olives or grapes.

We got our first lesson in Italian trains early on – read the fine print of where the trains stop. This is a lesson that you actually get from Rick Steeves, but we just didn't get it until our train stopped in Monterosso, the most northern of the Cinque Terra (CT) towns. The problem? That we had bought a ticket to go to La Spezia, south of the CT and had planned on transferring to a local train (not realizing that our Milan train actually went through the CT on our way to La Spezia). We realized that this was quite silly and jumped off the train. Our final destination was Vernazza, the 2nd town if you start in the north, but the train from Milan did not stop there. We waited an hour, hopped a local train and were there 5 minutes later – about the same time that we would have arrived had we stayed on our original train, but without the back tracking.

In retrospect, we should have stayed on the first train just for the views. This was my first trip to Italy, so in fairness, I don't have much to compare to, but I would rate this area as a must see for the country. The little towns perched on narrow strips of beach (or on the hill as in the case of Corniglia) between the grove-covered hills, the relaxed atmosphere, the food – really spectacular. Arriving in CT was truly when our vacation began.

Our lovely room was just steps from the train station. Now, when I say steps, I mean as in stairs! So it was close, but a good hike with bags (we do travel light, but you still have to have some stuff – although next time I go, tooth brush, swim suit and a skirt that I can scrunch up are pretty much all that I'm bringing!). The room was in a two-bedroom apartment, clean, bright, great location, charmingly appointed. Only negative was that we faced the main "street" (pedestrians only), right over one of the bars known for its nightlife and good breakfast! Couple of earplugs fixed that though. (Vernazza Rooms if anyone is going – only our room faced the main street, so if you want quiet, it can be arranged).

Vernazza itself can be walked in approximately 10 minutes from top to bottom. The bottom opens up onto a pedestrian square with a beach on one side. There is a lovely break water at the end of the street with terrific views that was actually blocked off due to rough waves on our first day. The square is edged on the other three sides by restaurants and bars.

We walked every section of the CT trail from Monterosso to Riomaggiore, but not all in one day! The longest section takes about 90 minutes, the shortest 15 (and is flat – the others are decidedly not). You can also take the train or boats. I recommend the walks first – you get to appreciate the different perspectives, colors, plants, etc. Train is great for getting there quick and boat is fun just for a different perspective.

Wear comfortable shoes! I know that it is hard to put on proper walking shoes when the temperature is 90+, but these trails are a bit treacherous in spots. They climb and fall with the hills; sometimes you are climbing rock walls or navigating over roots. Also bring lots of water. You are on your own between towns in terms of services (with some exceptions) and, did I mention, it is hot! But this is the quintessential CT experience and shouldn't be missed.

In terms of towns, here is my take on each:
Monterosso is the largest and has the largest beach. This is very much a resort town with all amenities. A bit big and lacking some CT character for me, but if you like to have lots of options for restaurants, night life and activities, this is your place. There is a gorgeous 14th century church here that is striped white and black marble. Also, step into the Oratory of the Dead next door. Recommended eating (highly): Miky's for dinner – wow!

Vernazza is lovely and nice size, but it seems to be the top tourist destination. Even though I was one, I like to stay away from the rest of the tourist riffraff! Several good restaurants, tiny but nice beach, great views if you walk up the hill to the overlooking tower. Recommend: Pizza stand near breakwater for a slice and a beer consumed out on the breakwater (you are welcome to take your glass out, just bring it back) and Il Pirata for breakfast – the ricotta filled panzarotti, divine.

Corniglia (pronounced Cornelia) is adorable. As mentioned, it is the only town not on the water, so no beach. It is also the smallest town, so your food and lodging options are very limited. It is worth visiting, but I wouldn't recommend staying here unless you want to be a hermit. Recommended – the gelato (only one place to get it) and sipping wine while sitting on the steps of the wine store watching the people go by, great craic.

Manarola is about the size of Vernazza but didn't feel as overrun. This is where we plan to stay if we get to return to that area. Recommended: the vineyard walk above town and the Sciacchetra Museum. Sciacchetra is a local specialty wine, basically made from raisins- you just have to try it! The "museum" is a crack up. It is one small room with lots of vintage tools, but the guy running it makes you - I mean almost forces you to - watch this film. The film is a copy of everything that is on the wall-mounted interpretive signs, read by someone with a very thick Italian accent. And the music! You just have to go, you'd never believe me if I tried to explain how bad it is.

Riomaggiore is also pretty big. We didn't spend very much time there, so I don't have much of a feel beyond that. Recommended: gnocchi at Joe's American Bar with FRESH pesto.

All of towns look as if they were pieced together by a giant doing a puzzle – brightly colored buildings plunked on top of each other basically stuck to the sides of the hill.

Every day was pretty similar in CT, late lie-in (Irish don't say sleeping-in), basic breakfast of gorgeous cappuccinos and pastries (and I mean gorgeous, after being in a coffee starved country for a while), we'd either walk or train to another CT town, have a terrific lunch, walk, train or boat back, get some beach time, have a nap, get ready for dinner – not always in that order, but that pretty much covers Wednesday, Thursday and Friday!

Saturday morning we grudgingly packed our things, said goodbye to our friends and the CT and boarded the train for hustling Milan. We had several hours in the big city before we needed to board our shuttle for the airport, so we stored our bags at the station and headed out for an afternoon of gawking in Milan's fashion district. This is another highly recommended activity – the stores and the people are something to see!

I do hope to return to that area. I want to explore the lakes region of Italy and would stay there in the future just going into Milan for a day (to see The Last Supper, for which I would reserve tickets at least 3 months in advance – crazy). A week or more in the CT would be an absolute treat, and I would do that again in a heartbeat. So if you are going, let us know – we'll meet you there!

Ciao!